Not everyone is well travelled, and my recent trip to Sydney was
my first. The preposition is important. This was a trip to Sydney:
I didn't go over to Sydney, as cultural mileage-pointers do. Nor
was I anything but a tourist. In saying that I don't think I'm subscribing
to an outdated hyperconformism, since the tag 'traveller' has become
so cliched that at least one travel agency has high-gloss posters
announcing: 'For travellers, not tourists'. Cue documentation: photographs
of, and a falsified Kerouac reference to, the well known jeans home,
Route 66 (the relevant sentence in On the Road actually refers to
Route 6). As a faithful tourist I did 'do' some galleries, but the
pretext for this outburst is the Museum
of Sydney, an institution whose name is the biggest thing about
it. It's a boutique museum.
'There's nothing in it!' a New Zealand historian told me just before
I went. I'd wanted to go to MoS since last February, when I heard
one of its curators, Peter Emmet, speak at the last New Zealand
Historical Association. That was not an ideal setting for a talk
about 'the poetics of space and the politics of place' ('What's
ontology?' one Dictionary of New Zealand Biography worker said to
another behind me). And sure, MoS's inspirational-quote panels had
a ton of Paul Carter gnomes about the museum being a theatre rather
than a mirror. If they weren't always convincing, they certainly
prodded one. How, for example, should one regard the cabinet system,
where artefacts are arranged in instructive contrast or parallel,
in drawers which the visitor pulls out at will? Certainly interactive:
but what about the way this device replicates old cabinets of curiosity?
Theatre and mirror together? Or a demonstration of the theatricality
of the mirror?
My favourite display (or installation) was a room wallpapered with
Australian Women's Weeklies from the fifties, and some homely couches,
gathered round two television-sized video screens playing montages
of (not overly personal) home movies of Sydney. It may sound dire,
but it wasn't. It was uncannily affecting, partly because of the
editing of the movies. Part of its power for me derived from its
follow-through: you go into the room next to it, and it's just a
lookout over Sydney, only one floor off street level. No Skytower
panorama; a humble yet spectacular look down a city street, onward
to the water, and thence to the apartments tumbling into the harbour
from the north shore. I'm not sure about how even so innovative
a museum as this can instantiate Walter Benjamin's famous comment
about the point of history being the seizing of a memory as it flashes
up in a moment of danger (quoted on a wall in the museum), but between
the film and the newsprint there was a sense of flash, of a memory
won against or in the face of danger.
Chris Hilliard
8 September 1997
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